TP-Link TL-WR941ND 300Mbps Advanced Wireless N Router

Posted on December 27th, 2009 in Hardware | No Comments

Equipped with three antennas, you will not have great difficult connecting to the TL-WR941ND even in the concrete and steel obstructed confines of an apartment.

The additional antenna coverages is not just for show. Mimo technology is employed and this ensures the best transmission speeds even in heavily congested wireless access areas. Wireless transmission congestion is common problem today with most apartments having their own wireless router.

Click for more details at TP-Link TL-WR941ND – Wireless router + 4-port switch – Ethernet, Fast Ethernet, 802.11b, 802.11g, 802.11n (draft 2.0) external

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DLink DIR-615 Wireless-N Broadband Router

Posted on December 25th, 2009 in Hardware | 2 Comments

D-Link understands that not everyone is a network engineers so it includes a Quick Router Setup utility that takes you through the configuration process step by step.

The more experienced can manual configure the built-in advanced control like the SPI firewall, PPTP to create a private door with which to enter your network and IPSec – the lock to opening that door.

Click for more review:
D-Link DIR615 WIRELESS N ROUTER, 4-PORT 10/100 SWITCH, DRAFT 802.11N

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Belkin N Wireless Router

Posted on December 23rd, 2009 in Hardware | No Comments

The N wireless router has antennas for the speed utilising Mimo and an SPI firewall for security.

The design is quite modern, finished in black with blue indicator lights. The router sits tall rather than flat to save space.

The additional height for the antennas means better wireless signals. It comes with a lifetime guarantee.

Click for details: Belkin Wireless N+ 802.11n Router (Black)

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NetGear WNR2000 RangeMax Wireless-N 300Mbps Router

Posted on December 21st, 2009 in Hardware | No Comments

Monitor your children over the Internet with this gizmo’s Live Parental Control. Use it to filter and disallow Net smut or gambling sites, for instance.

A bandwidth traffic usage meter lets you track the number of bytes that is transferred between you and the websites you visit.

I found the features for multiple SSIDs that allows specific security settings an interesting inclusion. It isolates users into groups such as adult and children.

Used in combination with parental controls, it gives parents the keys to lock or unlock the child’s Internet access.

Order now: NETGEAR RangeMax Premium Wireless-N Gigabit Router (WNR3500)

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Upgrade to Gigabit Networking for Faster Transfers

Posted on December 12th, 2009 in Hardware | No Comments

ON MOST HOME networks, the transfer rate of a fast ethernet connection (about 12.5 megabits per second) is the speed limit- and that’s painfully slow for some tasks.

The solution? Upgrade to a gigabit network. Switching over to gigabit (1000-mbps) speeds increases potential throughput tenfold, minimizing transfer times and greatly enhancing your ability to stream high-bandwidth files to connected devices without interference. Gigabit networking is now a common feature of networking devices and shouldn’t carry a big cost premium. Most modern motherboards have gigabit functionality built in.

This guide does not apply to wireless networks. The factors that constrain speeds on wireless networks are entirely unlike those that limit speeds on wired networks.

Here we’ll look at how to determine whether your equipment can handle gigabit networking, and (if not) how to build a gigabit network from scratch.

Identify Your Network

Do you already have a gigabit network? The Windows desktop doesn’t indicate whether you’ve acquired this superspeedy networking feature. And since many factors influence network transfer speeds, your gigabit network might crawl at a data transfer rate of less than 10 mbps for various reasons.

One requirement of gigabit networking is that all connected devices be connected via a gigabit port. In addition, they must be connected to one another with network cables that can handle the bandwidth. For devices such as your router, a gaming console, or an external storage device, the easiest way to discover whether they support fast ethernet (10/100 mbps) or gigabit ethernet (10/100/1000 mbps) is to check the devices’ specifications in their online descriptions or accompanying manuals. Look for a mention of either “gigabit networking” or “1000 Mbps.”

Your PC’s motherboard is a critical component of the gigabit network. If your system came to you prebuilt or if you don’t remember relevant details about your rig’s motherboard, don’t worry. In Windows, click Start and select Run (for more-modern versions of the OS, move your cursor to the search box and left-click). Type ncpa.cpl and press . The Network Connections window should pop up.

Right-click the network connection that’s listed as your Local Area Connection (LAN), and left-click Proper- ties, Click the big Configure button located to the right of the listing for your network controller. In the new window that appears, open the Advanced ‘tab and scroll down until you find a property labeled ‘Connection Type’ or ‘Speed’. Left-click it and click the Value field to the right. Scroll up and down through this list of options, looking for anything that starts with a value of ’2000′ or anything that refers to network speeds in ‘Gbps’. If all you see are ’100′ values and speeds designated in ‘Mbps’, your motherboard’s built-in ethernet controller tops out at fast-ethernet speeds. But you can still upgrade your PC to gigabit networking by installing a third-party gigabit ethernet card.

If all of the devices on your network do support gigabit functionality, great! If you add a slower, fast-ethernet device to a gigabit-ready hub, transfer speeds will crawl only when you access that particular device – a slow device connected to a router won’t poison the rest. Obviously, if you directly connect a gigabit-ready PC to a fast-ethernet device such as a network-attached storage (NAS) box, you’ll get only fast-ethernet speeds.

Also, consider your cables. A typical category 5 (Cat 5) cable supports gigabit ethernet, but it’s worthwhile to invest in Cat 5e cables if you are building a gigabit network from scratch. Plain old Cat 5 cabling is now considered obsolete, and Cat 5e cabling meets more-rigorous specifications, allowing it to do a better job than Cat 5 cabling can of minimizing electromagnetic interference. On the other hand, bumping up your cabling to a classification higher than Cat 5e may not benefit your network speeds; for example, Cat 6 cabling doesn’t dramatically improve speed.

To see what kind of cable you have, check the cable’s side: The spec should be printed somewhere along the length of the cord.

Test Your Network

If your parts are in order and the cables are connected, you’ll want to fire up your gigabit network so that you can check its performance. But first you need to confirm that the drivers and firmware related to your network-oriented devices (motherboard, router, NAS box, and so on) are up-to-date.

Suppose that you are planning to connect your PC to a gigabit NAS box via a single router. At this point you need to make sure that you are running the latest firmware for your NAS box and your router, and either the latest firmware and drivers for your motherboard or the most recent drivers for your discrete gigabit network card, depending on how you’ve set up your system.

All too often, a device may not work as intended out of the box. Head over to the manufacturer’s Web site to grab the latest drivers and firmware updates; then run the accompanying driver setup program or follow the related instructions for flashing your device. The process isn’t difficult (see find.pcworld.com/63936).

Fire up your network devices and use the helpful LAN Speed Test utility (www. totusoft.com/Products) to gauge the speeds that your gigabit network is attaining. After launching the tool, click the Start Test button and browse to a folder on a connected network device. Enter a size for your test file (IGB should do the trick), and the program will begin to track the read and write speeds of transfers between your system and the target device.

Of course, you won’t get the maximum 125-mbps connection that a gigabit network theoretically supports. Ultimately, the speed of the storage devices doing the reading or writing – be they magnetic hard drives or flash-based storage – will limit your network’s performance. For a hard drive, relevant factors include the physical speed of the drive itself and the location where the drive writes the data on its physical platters. For a solid-state drive (SSD), the performance you get depends on whether the drive uses faster single-level cell flash memory or slower multilevel cell flash memory, and on whether you’re reading or writing to the drive.

Unless it uses a RAM drive, or an array of hard drives or SSDs, your network won’t reach the 125-mbps limit for gigabit networking. Nevertheless, you can realistically expect to achieve speeds of at least 40 to 50 mbps, which is four times as fast as the realworld speed of a typical fast-ethernet connection. Though gigabit networking might not be the Star Trek transporter of LANbased file transfers, the performance improvement that it offers over a typical fast-ethernet connection amply compensates for the time this setup process requires.

Copyright PC World Communications, Inc. Dec 2009

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Linksys by Cisco WRT160N Wireless-N Broadband Router

Posted on December 11th, 2009 in Hardware | No Comments

Sleek and looking like an UFO, the WRT160N will sit nicely in most home. Linksys decided to stuff the usually protruding antennas into the body without sacrificing connectivity.

Newcomers to home networking would be relieved to know that one button activation makes setting up WIFI Protected Access security easy.

Linksys WRT160N-RM Refurbished Wireless-N Router for more info.

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Home networking: How to avoid traffic jams

Posted on December 9th, 2009 in Wireless 101 | 1 Comment

In many households today, broadband Internet connections are used not only for e-mail and Web browsing, but also to stream music and video, play online games and/or perhaps make voice calls using a VoIP (Voice over Internet Protocol) service.

You may have several PCs on your home network, as well as some combination of a gaming console like the Xbox 360, an iPhone or other handheld device, and perhaps a streaming music player such as the Squeezebox or a streaming video player such as the Roku. (And with the holiday gift-giving season upon us, it’s possible you’ll collect more devices soon.) While some of these devices may have a wired connection to your router, most tap in wirelessly.

So what happens when one person wants to listen to music, another wants to watch a movie and still another wants to play an online game all at once? If you’ve never tweaked your router’s firmware, you might experience performance problems. What’s more, many wireless routers leave the factory with some of their best features disabled. I’ll show you how to change your router’s configuration so that you can take full advantage of its capabilities.

Why router settings matter
By default, a wireless router maximizes the rate at which it transfers data. This is desirable when you’re transferring files from point A to point B using a protocol like TCP because you want to move files as fast as possible. If the router begins dropping too many packets, it simply throttles its link rate down until the packet loss abates — and then it begins ramping up all over again.

Dropped packets and seesawing link rates aren’t a big deal when you’re downloading files from the Internet or moving them around your local network because the packets are automatically resent. It also doesn’t matter if some packets arrive out of order, because you’re not going to access the file until the data transfer is complete anyway.

Dropped and out-of-order packets are a big problem, however, if they occur while you’re streaming a movie, listening to music, or speaking to someone using a VoIP service like Vonage or Skype. Applications such as these require a sustainable link rate with as few dropped packets as possible; consistency is the key here, not raw speed.

Sending high-definition video from a PC in your den to a media player in your living room, for instance, typically consumes between 20 and 25 megabits per second of network bandwidth. That shouldn’t a problem for today’s 802.11n routers, which promise theoretical bandwidth of up to 300Mbit/sec.In reality, problems such as dropped packets, out-of-order packets and jitter (packets arriving at different rates of speed) can cause pixilation, stuttering, visual dropouts, soundtracks losing sync with video, and all sorts of other problems.

Concurrent traffic on your network also has an impact. You probably won’t enjoy watching a movie streamed from Netflix if your teenager is exchanging massive files using BitTorrent at the same time, for instance.

Fortunately, there is a solution that delivers optimal performance for everyone in the house. Unless your router is very old, it has firmware settings that can be configured to instruct it to assign packets associated with streaming media traffic (music, video, games and the like) a higher priority than packets associated with data-file traffic (documents, spreadsheets, digital photos and so on), based on the assumption that these data types aren’t as time sensitive.

These settings are collectively known as “quality of service” (QoS). Enabling and tweaking QoS settings is a balancing act: It can make some network-oriented applications run more smoothly, but only at the expense of other applications. It is, however, the best means of allocating your network’s bandwidth.

Unfortunately, there is no standard user interface for changing QoS settings. The Wi-Fi Multimedia (WMM) specification, which is supported by nearly every modern router, is supposed to prioritize network traffic according to four access categories: from highest to lowest priority, these are voice, video, best effort and background. In order for this to work, however, WMM must be enabled in both the router’s firmware and in the client’s Wi-Fi adapter.

In addition, each application (such as the media server in a network-attached storage box) must embed two bits in each packet to inform the router of its priority. However, few real-world applications other than VoIP services embed these bits, which renders WMM rather useless for applications other than voice. And that’s why you’ll need to tweak your router’s QoS settings on your own. Here’s how.

Step by step: Tweaking your router’s settings
It’s not at all unusual for a router manufacturer to release new firmware updates over the router’s useful life. These updates typically include rudimentary bug fixes and performance enhancements, but they sometimes include entirely new functions that didn’t exist when the router was first shipped. Either way, it’s always a good idea to make sure you have the latest version.

Before configuring your router’s QoS settings, check the support pages on the manufacturer’s Web site to see if any new firmware is available. If there is a new version, follow the instructions you’ll find there to download and install it.

I’m using D-Link’s Xtreme-N DIR-655 wireless router as an example in this story, simply because it’s a very popular model that’s still available at retail outlets three years after its initial rollout; it also continues to receive firmware updates. Much of the DIR-655′s QoS technology was developed by a third party, Ubicom, and can also be found in selected routers manufactured by Netgear, Cisco, Trendnet, and others. If you’re using another brand, the screens may look different, but the optimization options should basically be the same; you might just have to poke around to find them.

To get started, type the router’s IP address into your browser of choice and hit Enter. The DIR-655′s default IP address is 192.168.0.1, but I previously changed this router’s address to 192.168.1.1 because the original address conflicted with my DSL modem.

(If you don’t know your router’s IP address, refer to its documentation. The most common router IP addresses are 192.168.1.1 for Linksys routers, 192.168.0.1 for D-Link and Netgear routers, 192.168.2.1 for Belkin routers and 192.168.11.1 for Buffalo routers. If you’ve changed the default IP address and don’t remember what you changed it to, you might have to reset the router to its factory-default values.)

Type in your admin password to access the router’s settings. If you’ve never created an admin password, now would be a good time.

Copyright 2009 IDG Middle East

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